Walking in September along the  Great Ocean Walk is an an up and down, rain coat on and off, up and over felled trees encounter with the drama of this coast, a push against headwinds, a sometimes ethereal float through forest paths, but always one is heading towards these stone pillars,  always the sea is wide  foam fo white water, the headlands limestone softened by distance and ascending sea spray.  What is wet and cold one hour, more than splendid the next.