Ritsurin Gardens in Takamatsu, in Spring exceeds superlatives, but leaving aside, or really leaving outside, for a few moments, it has two charming folk craft museums, and the one for roof tiles and roof finials is a gem, or perhaps a perfect netsuke of a museum: small, elegant, composed, all of one piece. Roof finials in Japanese castles and period houses are frustratingly hard to view,  but here they are a cast of wonders at an elevation that ensures every detail can be scrutinised. There is no supersaturation by surfeit of finials, no tiring of tiles. Go, the goblins wont thank you but you will.