The long narrow ferries of Bangkok’s canals, frequent, bustling, complete with both driver and conductor, scoot along the waterways, and if the driver judges, with a shrewd glance, the water level’s a bit on the high side, flicks a lever, and the roof comes down about eight inches, causing newbies like me, to flinch, even though my modest height means, I’m really in no danger, and making the local women to giggle, and did they actually give me a little reassuring slap ? In any case, the Spirit House adjacent to the ferry stop, resplendent with its thoughtful offerings, might be to the canal spirits or more terrestrial spirits, but in any case I like to think they too might have got a laugh from this.


CONVERSATION