About 20 years ago I
bought a set of three cast iron fry pans from Chinatown, one – the least useful
size-wise – I gave away to a friend who was undersupplied kitchen-wise. The
other two I used for some time, cultivating on each a seasoned surface. At one
point I gave the smaller pan to one of my brothers, for some reason I am not
quite clear on. I knew it had the makings of
a great pan, but I was prepared to share. The pan I kept, by diligent
application of oil, avoidance of soap, hundreds of tempering with delicious
things, cleaning with hot water and nylon scourers, the pan acquired a patina,
intrinsically black, that developed into a very decent non-stick surface. No
Teflon, just patina.
Once, sadly, an
overzealous friend, scoured off all the black with steel wool, but I started
again and gradually the surface regained its equanimity. Perhaps it was even
better for the polishing back. The pan
builds up patina till it starts to become blackly nacreous, like a bad
oyster. The surface starts to acquire
too much topography. When the pan starts to leave itself on the food, then the
relationship between cooker and cookee has broken down, inexorably. Steel wool, wiry scourers, even, even, paring
knifes (only for the underside) might
be, or must be, put too. The pan de cycle has come around, and once again, the
fry pan must be taken back to metal.
CONVERSATION